Witch's Hat
The Witch’s Hat
Coyote Buttes South, AZ
I have visited many interesting locations in my travels, but few places compare to the unique shapes, colors, textures, and astonishing formations found in the Vermilion Cliffs area of Northern Arizona. For landscape photographers and adventurers, the Vermilion Cliffs offer some of the most unique scenes and photographic opportunities in the American Southwest. This area includes famous sites such as The Wave, White Pocket, Wire Pass, and Buckskin Gulch.
While Coyote Buttes North, commonly known as The Wave, and White Pocket attract the most visitors, there is a lesser-known section that remains largely undiscovered - Coyote Buttes South. This area features similar colors and formations to The Wave, which is just three miles away, as well as intriguing brain rock and colorful swirls found at White Pocket, located only seven miles away.
The image above, known as the Witch’s Hat, is just one of the many fascinating formations found in the lesser known area of the Vermilion Cliffs - called Coyote Buttes South.
Images and location summary by Tim Wier
Trail Difficulty - CHALLENGING to HARD
I rate the difficulty of this location as a 4 on a scale of 1-5 (with 5 being the most difficult). The hike to this location is a moderate 1 mile from the Coyote Buttes South parking area. However, the drive to this location is CHALLENGING to HARD, with deep sand and unmarked roads. You absolutely must have a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle to make this drive.
If you have a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle and large, wide tires, you should be able to reach Coyote Buttes without any issues. However, I recommend lowering your tire pressure to 15-20 psi to be safe.
Once you arrive at the Coyote Buttes South parking area, the hike is approximately one mile long. The first three-quarters of a mile is on sandy terrain, which can sometimes make the hike somewhat strenuous. Once you reach the sandstone formations of Coyote Buttes, the hiking becomes easier. You must scramble up several rock formations to get this shot's location.
GPS Coordinates & Elevation
5,783 ft Elevation
Download KMZ Trail File
Click Here to download the KMZ file for this location.
Photography Tips
The Witch's Hat is situated on a freestanding rock formation, and its appearance changes depending on the angle from which you view it.
Next to the Witch's Hat is a separate rock formation located 15 feet away and of similar height. This neighboring rock formation is the ideal spot for capturing stunning views. Most photographers typically position themselves by climbing to the front of this rock formation. However, the shot featured above was taken from the back of that rock formation while standing at the top and looking down. This angle helps eliminate the gap between the rock and the ground (see image below).
There is no rush when shooting at this location. Take your time to explore different positions to find the composition and profile that best suits your vision.
Directions
CLICK HERE to get driving directions to Coyote Butte South.
You can access White Pocket from either Highway 89 (from Kanab or Page) or Highway 89A (from Jacob Lake or Bitter Springs). The route from Highway 89A is easier, but it is longer if you are traveling from Kanab or Page.
From Highway 89 - Drive 20.3 miles on Rock House Valley Road (BLM 1065) until you see an OLD CORRAL on the west side of the road. The Rock House Valley Road portion accessed from Highway 89 can be rough, with bumpy areas, ruts, and washboards. It may not be a pleasant drive, but taking it slow and steady will get you there.
From Highway 89A - Drive 9.4 miles on Rock House Valley Road (BLM 1065) until you spot an OLD CORRAL on the west side of the road. The Rock House Valley Road segment from Highway 89A is also rough in parts, with some washboards, but it is generally better maintained than the drive from Highway 89.
From the OLD CORRAL - turn east onto Pine Tree Rd (BLM 1017) and drive 3.1 miles until you see a turnoff to your left. From this turnoff, drive 5.9 miles on BLM 1066 (which will turn into BLM 1081) until you reach an old ghost town called Poverty Flat Ranch (where you will see some tin buildings and an old windmill). This area around the ghost town (Poverty Flat Ranch) can get confusing, as several other roads lead in different directions. Stay left on BLM 1082 and drive 1.75 miles until you come to a swinging gate.
Swinging gate - The area around the swinging gate can be confusing because there are two parallel roads. However, you don’t need to worry about which road to choose, as they merge eventually. Open the gate and drive through, making sure to close it afterward.
From the swinging gate - drive 0.7 miles on BLM 1082 until you reach a small parking area for Coyote Buttes South. A sign will say “South Coyote Buttes Special Management Area.” You have arrived at the parking area.
HIKE to the Witch’s Hat - from the parking area, you will see a trail heading west toward a large rock formation. Follow the dirt/sandy trail until you reach a rock area that appears as an entrance. Scramble up the rocks and continue west - you will pass a small, unique rock formation with some interesting colors (see below). Continue past this; in about 20 yards, you will see a trail heading north by northwest. Continue on this trail until you see a unique tall formation called the Control Tower (see below).
From the Control Tower, the Witch’s Hat is northwest, about 20 yards..
Google Earth
EXIF Data
Focal Length – 16 mm
Exposure – 45 th sec @ f 2.8
ISO – 100
Date – April 20th
Time – 6:21 pm
Best Time of Day to Shoot
This location is best photographed late afternoon or sunset, especially on overcast days. The image above was captured at 6:21 pm on a day when the sunset was at 7:07.
Best Time of Year
You can shoot this location anytime of year.
Lens(es) Needed
The Witch's Hat can be photographed in various ways, and moving around the rock formation offers different perspectives. The image above was captured at 16mm.
Birds-Eye View From Google Earth Pro
Permits
Coyote Buttes South is designated as a wilderness area, which requires special permits. Permits are available for an ADVANCED PERMIT and a DAILY LOTTERY. An ADVANCE PERMIT is typically easy to obtain if you apply as soon as they become available. There is also a DAILY LOTTERY option, but it is not always guaranteed (depending on the time of year).
CLICK HERE to be directed to the BML website for Coyote Buttes South ADVANCED PERMIT
Direction of the Shot
The direction of the shot is mainly north @ 10°.
Equipment Needed
Coyote Buttes South is located deep in the Arizona desert, far from the nearest community. The area has no trees, minimal shade, water sources, or cell service. Given these conditions, it's essential to bring the following items: a compass, sunscreen, a hat, a long-sleeve shirt, a jacket, plenty of water (with electrolytes), food, snacks, and energy bars, and ensure your vehicle has a full tank of gas.
From a photography standpoint, a sturdy tripod and a polarizer are necessary. Additionally, don't forget to pack a headlamp or flashlight to help you navigate to and from your vehicle.
Number of Other Photographers to Expect
Getting to Coyote Butte South can be challenging, requiring a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) issues only 10 permits daily for this location. While you may see other visitors or photographers, you may also be the only person there.
Weather
The Vermilion Cliffs experience a high desert climate, where temperatures can vary by as much as 40°F in a single day. Spring and fall offer pleasant weather, but summer temperatures can soar into the 100s. The late summer monsoon season can bring intense yet brief thunderstorms, which provide excellent opportunities for photography.
Cell Service
I use Verizon, and I could not get cell service at Coyote Buttes South. If you get lost, you might get cell service by climbing one of the large hills in the area.
Area Guides and Workshops
Many tour guides and outfitters in the Kanab and Paria area offer all-inclusive tours to Coyote Buttes South. If you do not have a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle or are not experienced in driving in deep sand, I recommend hiring one of these expert guides or outfitters.
I have used Paria Outpost & Outfitters in the past and was completely satisfied with their service, knowledge, and accommodations.